Rustica Birthday

Let me start by saying I'm not picky. I'm perfectly happy eating bar food. I'm also happy to eat a fabulous expensive dinner.

I really just love to eat. But, for me the difference between nourishing myself and a true dining experience is profound. I had heard about Rustica before. Several people who's taste and judgement I respect told me it was great. So, of course my expectations were high. But my experience at Rustica blew me away.

Expectations are tricky. You know -  when someone tells you a movie is incredible, you can't wait to go see it, you hype it up in your mind, anticipating the joy, the sorrow and the sheer awe of the spectacle on the screen. But, almost always, you leave the theater disappointed. Not because it was bad, but because you expected it to be so much better. That was my fear as I walked into Rustica.

The restaurant opened last year on the Kalamazoo mall, its a small narrow room, the tables are small and close together. That arrangement could potentially make you feel crowded and cramped - and on another night, it might have. But on a Wednesday night, the restaurant wasn't busy and we were seated near the front window. We got a blast of cool air when the front door opened. But, fortunately the weather was mild and it was no big deal.

Rustica describes its interior decor as cozy, comfortable and casual - No argument from me, I agree.

Since this was a special occasion dinner (my birthday), we started with a bottle of wine. I won't waste too much time talking about wine. We chose a reasonably priced, but very delicious Spanish red. Rustica adds a nice touch to its wine service by pouring the bottle into a decanter there at the table. Impressive.

I can hardly wait to talk about my entree. Patience. First the appetizers:

I'm not really an appetizer person, but this occasion called for it. An experience more about the pleasure of eating than the nourishment it provides. I had the potato-leek soup with crème fraîche, croutons and chives.

It's difficult for me to get super excited about soup, but it was excellent. I am such a texture eater, and this soup was perfect in terms of texture. Not too thick and chalky, not too thin. Delicious potato and leek flavor complimented by the salty croutons. Excellent.

We also had the Rustica Salad. How awesome can a salad be... right? Its just salad. But this was nicely done; bibb lettuce with a very light and tasty shallot vinaigrette along with goat cheese crostini and olive tampanade.

Okay.. finally, the entrees.

You know.... I try to write well. But I'm not sure I can do justice to my dinner with words.
I had the Hanger Steak with mashed cauliflower, crispy shallots and balsamic jus.

I understand that is a fairly challenging cut of meat. It can be very tough if its overcooked. If its cooked right, it is full of flavor. Well, Rustica nailed it! The steak was slightly charred on the outside - red, tender and flavorful on the inside. Can I just say it was excellent? That won't really do it justice. I will say that I was in the company of a lovely woman. She's beautiful, smart and charming. But when I took a bite of that steak, her face got a little blurry and the sound of her voice faded into the background. It was like every other sense- sight, sound took a back seat so I could taste that food. Don't worry... I did share with her.

We also had the Grilled Arctic Charr with roasted fennel, braised chickpeas, spinach and pimentòn vinaigrette. This was the first time I've had charr, its described as similar to salmon or trout. The charr at Rustica was delicious. I found it to be a bit more mild than salmon - it was cooked perfectly and complimented well by the side dishes. Excellent.

I don't have much of a sweet tooth, but since this was a celebration dinner, we decided to finish with the Michigan Apple Crisp with Nutmeg Gelato.

Hmmm... what can I say that wouldn't be redundant? I'll save the overused words of praise and try to give you a description in plain, journalistic-speak. Nevermind.... I can't do that! It was delicious! The apple crisp was warmed perfectly - the apple slices were still firm and tart, not flimsy and mealy. The combination of textures between the apples, the rich - but not too sweet - sauce and the crunchy, crispy topping made every bite thrilling. I really enjoyed the challenge of getting the right combination of ingredients, flavors and temperatures in every single bite.

Now, I have sung the praises loud and clear. Ultimately, I know that I'm writing this review for myself. But just in case anyone else reads it, I suppose I should give a fair assessment of the experience that could include things not so glorious. Um... it was a little bit drafty by the front door. Er... we got stood up by the couple that was supposed to join us (can I hold Rustica responsible for that?) Oh, I've got it! We had to pay! Yes, paying is very unpleasant.

I should mention again that we visited Rustica on a Wednesday night. It was pretty slow. I had heard of long waits for a table at the small restaurant, but we got right in. But if you do go on the weekend, be prepared to wait for a while. There is a small bar at the back of the restaurant where you can pass the time drinking and if the weather is nice, there is plenty to keep you occupied on the Kalamazoo Mall. But don't give up. It's worth it. Its about time Kalamazoo had a REAL decent restaurant. There are plenty of good ones, but not many with the sense of purpose that Rustica serves up. The menu is not meant to impress you with extravagant, expensive and complicated dishes. Each one is simple, crafted to let the quality of the ingredients shine through.

Lets hope Rustica raises the bar for other restaurants in Kalamazoo - making them worthy of my next birthday dinner. If not, I'm going back.

El Jimador - Portage

   Mexican food is tricky. I was intrigued by Kalamazoo's newest restaurant offering, Casa Bolero, but I thought before I go sample the hip and trendy Mexican cuisine I would give myself a starting point... a base if you will.

    Up here in the north, the "Mexican Restaurant" has evolved quite a bit over the past several years. When I was a kid, the only option people had for Mexican in West Michigan was Chi-Chi's and even later, you might have had the option of a corporate Tex-Mex joint. But hey, nothing will kill a business like a good salmonella scare. And I'd say we're all better off without them now, even those who got sick.

I'm not even going to talk about Taco Bell!

    But you know what? There are people from Mexico living in the arctic north. I have a story to prove it (that part comes later). Some of those people have decided to share the food of their home with us in Michigan and I am thankful.

Perhaps that's enough scene setting. I'm starting my food reviewing with a little story about a place called El Jimador. Its a strip mall restaurant in Portage. Among the video rental stores, corporate chain restaurants and, of course, Wal-mart, El Jimador is a welcome little escape from the corporate and mass produced. The interior is just about right, a Mexican mural fills one wall, the decor is tasteful, not cheesy. Its obvious they're not trying too hard to transform the space into some place "south of the border," but its not a plain stark hole in the wall either.

   When I sit down in a restaurant, I want to get right to the business...... of drinking. Just to get in the spirit of the experience, I decided I had to have a margarita. After all, El Jimador boasts "The best Margaritas around" I'm not sure what radius is included in "around," but I had to check it out. Lets just say I had a couple margaritas the same night that were better. It was good, but nothing special. Well Tequila and some margarita mix from a plastic bottle.

The main qualification I have to evaluate a dining experience is my appetite (okay, and a few years in a few kitchens. But, my qualifications are the dollar bills in my bank account. If I pay for something, I should enjoy it. So should you. There is no reason to feel intimidated by people or critics with sophisticated palates and extensive food education. If you like it - good. So, speaking of the food at El Jimador, yes - it was good.

Unfortunately, most Mexican cuisine in Midwestern American cities is nothing more than pre-cooked meats, stuffed into tortillas and zapped in the microwave. I had the "Burrito Loco." A combination of chicken, steak and onions in a tortilla covered with green sauce and cheese. Yup - I ate it all. It nourished me. But, eh... I could tell the meat had been cooked hours earlier and reheated using modern microwave technology. I have no complaints about the Burrito Loco. I have no particular praise either - except to say it was big.

   Fajitas are a big hit at Mexican restaurants! They arrive at the table with all that sizzle and steam and everyone has to turn and look. Everyone says, "Oooh, that looks good!" At one point in the evening, our table was also the focus of everyone as a steaming pile of chicken, peppers and onions arrived.
I'd say the fajitas were adequate, not particularly well seasoned and maybe slightly overcooked. We assembled the fajitas using the warm tortilla's provided along with a huge pile of lettuce (shredded in a meat slicer), guacamole and pi co de gallo. Half the reason fajitas are such a popular item is that big arrival, and the project of putting the food together. El Jimador's fajitas are sufficient.

If I review another Mexican restaurant, (of course I will!) I will be sure to place special emphasis on the Guacamole. Lets just agree. Guac is awesome! And hey, if a restaurant has good guacamole, I can forget that the rest of the food is just adequate..

But - I hate to say it - El Jimador's guacamole is also just adequate. Its fairly bland in flavor, and processed to a point that it's smooth and creamy. I prefer guacamole to be a little more chunky.

So, we've talked about the booze and the food - more than half of the restaurant equation. Since the food was not enough really for me to suggest El Jimador or for me to discourage you from trying it yourself. We have to talk about price and service.

The service was good. I'll say it was a step beyond adequate, but not quite wonderful. We were served by a very polite man who had a very limited command of the English language. That made the experience all the more charming. At one point, when he was unsure if I had finished my Burrito Loco, I explained that I wanted to keep it because, "I was still nibbling." He had no idea what I said. Soon after that, another man who spoke better English approached our table to make sure we were all set.

   The prices were fair. Entree prices between $8 and $12, so you can get in and out of there cheaply. My bill was sent quite a bit higher by two margaritas (they were big) at $8 each.

If we're going to talk scales. Say, one through ten, I'd give El Jimador a six. Its worthwhile, especially if you're out in Portage. But if you're looking for a Mexican experience that will blow you away with authenticity or innovation.... keep looking.

Here we go!

I have been complaining about the quality of Kalamazoo restaurants for years. Generally, its been sucky. An endless run of corporate chains and a few local joints with no imagination. I mean, really! How many places are going to put a turkey club sandwich on their menu! C'mon! So until recently, If anyone asked me for a restaurant recommendation, I told them to get out of town. Go to Chicago, or at least make a road trip to Grand Rapids.
Now, Kalamazoo is getting better... A little bit. They don't have to work to hard to improve on what was. It was pathetic! So if you add a sushi restaurant, a Spanish tapas bar and a British pub, you've automatically improved the selection. But the standards for those places is not that high. Even the most sophisticated diners in Kalamazoo are thrilled to have a couple of place to choose from - even if they are just mediocre.
The restaurants that are opening are getting a free ride! A trendy decor, a hip logo and a $20 entrée will automatically draw in a hip and trendy crowd, desperate for good food, desperate for a stimulating metropolitan experience - even if the food is average. I want to challenge them to do better. I live in Kalamazoo. For the time being, I'm staying. And I want better food! So, I'll do my best with my limited means to visit a Kalamazoo restaurant each week, and I will post a review here. If you object to what I say, let me know. If you agree, let me know. And if you know of a place that's fantastic - by all means - let me know!